Flipper Rebuild Kit Contents:
Bally/Williams Kit A-13524-1 (early games) - Part # FLKIT1: ONE kit does TWO flippers- 1 left and 1 right
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Bally/Williams Kit A-13524-8 (late games) - Part # FLKIT2: ONE kit does TWO flippers- 1 left and 1 right
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Chicago Gaming Co. (all games) - Part # FLKIT2: ONE kit does TWO flippers- 1 left and 1 right
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NOTE: Stern Pinball has recently discontinued the production of the Data East flipper kit. Please use our new custom kit (below) for rebuilding your Data East flippers.
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Data East Custom Kit - Solid-State Flippers - Part # FLKIT3: ONE kit does TWO flippers- 1 left and 1 right *** For games with end-of-stroke switches ***
NOTE: Stern Pinball has recently discontinued the production of the original Data East flipper kits. This new kit is custom-assembled using some still-available Data East parts, and some currently-available Bally/Williams parts. The Bally/Williams parts are a nice substitute for the original Data East parts, as they give a more "crisp" feel to the flippers, and are much easier and cheaper to obtain and replace for repairs on your machine.
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Data East Custom Kit - Solid-State Flippers - Part # FLKIT4: ONE kit does TWO flippers- 1 left and 1 right *** For games without end-of-stroke switches ***
NOTE: Stern Pinball has recently discontinued the production of the original Data East flipper kits. This new kit is custom-assembled using some still-available Data East parts, and some currently-available Bally/Williams parts. The Bally/Williams parts are a nice substitute for the original Data East parts, as they give a more "crisp" feel to the flippers, and are much easier and cheaper to obtain and replace for repairs on your machine.
As used on games such as: Lethal Weapon 3
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Data East Custom Kit - Pre-Solid-State Flippers - Part # FLKIT5: ONE kit does TWO flippers- 1 left and 1 right *** For games with high-voltage end-of-stroke switches ***
NOTE: Stern Pinball has recently discontinued the production of the original Data East flipper kits. This new kit is custom-assembled using some still-available Data East parts, and some currently-available Bally/Williams parts. The Bally/Williams parts are a nice substitute for the original Data East parts, as they give a more "crisp" feel to the flippers, and are much easier and cheaper to obtain and replace for repairs on your machine.
As used on games such as: Laser War, Torpedo Alley, Time Machine
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Sega & new Stern Kit - RIGHT Flippers - Part # 500-6307-00: ONE kit does ONE RIGHT SIDE flipper
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Sega & new Stern Kit - LEFT Flippers - Part # 500-6307-10: ONE kit does ONE LEFT SIDE flipper
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Additional Flipper Parts You May Want to Order as part of your flipper rebuild:
The following parts are not included in factory-assembled kits, and may not always be necessary for use, but some games may require them as part of the rebuild, or some may be handy to have as spares:
- Flipper Bushings:
For Williams games 1980 (Firepower) and up, and late-model Bally/Williams games from approx. 1989-2000. Part #03-7568. Occasionally cracked or broken on some "higher mileage" games. Only way to properly replace these is to have the entire flipper mechanism removed from the machine, and partially stripped-down, so a full rebuild is the perfect time to replace these inexpensive items.
- Flipper Bushing Nuts/Screws set:
For use with above bushings. Most screws can be missing or snapped off, or even have their heads or threads stripped. Screws can also be weakened from previous installation and removal. Nuts on back side of flipper baseplate are often missing. Again, another very inexpensive but good idea.
- Blue Threadlocker Compound:
Made by Loctite and Permatex. Blue thread locker is a non-permanent version (ie: easily removable in the future) of this magical fluid that will help keep screws secure in most any application, including high-vibration flipper components. We recommend a drop of threadlocker compound on nuts on back side of flipper bushings, as well as on the screws that hold down the coil stop, and front coil mounting bracket.
- Flipper Coils:
Again, not always required for replacement during a rebuild, but if you've got the wrong coils in your game (common on many late-model games from "operator ignorance") or if your coils look like they've got a few hundred thousand miles on them, or are otherwise physically banged-up or damaged, a new coil or two can really make quite an improvement.
- Spare EOS Switch(es):
AKA "end of stroke" switch. Especially handy on older games (about 1991-back) where these switches tend to wear out first, before most other flipper parts/components. Good to have a spare or two on hand for emergency repairs. A worn or failed EOS switch can render a game useless, so always pays to have a spare on hand.
- New Flipper Button Switches:
Often need to be replaced on older (pre-1992) games where higher voltage/current is run directly through the flipper button switch itself (games without computer-controlled flippers). Contact points on these switches can become pitted and worn over the years and limit the amount of current that can get through them. So often times, even after a full, proper flipper rebuild, you may still have "weak" flippers. This can be caused by worn flipper button switch contact points.
- Oversize Hex Head Screws:
Really a good idea for securing those flipper baseplates or mounting brackets to the underside of your playfield. It's very common to see a lot of flipper brackets that are flopping around a little bit loose on the underside of most playfields. This is mostly due to vibrations over the years that work the mounting screws loose and typically "round out" or "strip" the holes in the wood where the screws go. If you've done much pinball repair work, you may know that toothpicks, folded up paper, super glue, and other remedies just don't work for stripped-out wooden screw holes. The best solution is to use some of our oversize hex head screws for secure mounting of your flipper brackets- these will mount firmly in loose or even stripped out screw holes and really improve the performance of your flippers, while greatly reducing the likeliness of a future repair from loose or sloppy parts. And these are a great upgrade/replacement for older style screws that use a phillips head or flat-blade screwdriver head (Gottlieb games), which can be difficult to keep the screwdriver in. Hex head screws use a 1/4" socket driver to secure them, which will not slip off the screw like phillips or flat blade drivers.
NOTE: Screw holes in metal brackets/baseplates on older (pre-1986) games may need to be drilled out slightly larger to accomodate the wider thread of the oversize screws.
- New Flipper Rubber Rings:
These rings tend to wear out before most on the playfield, since flippers typically get the most use of any device on a pinball game. Dress up your flippers with a nice fresh set, or grab a few for handy spares! Another inexpensive item to top-off your rebuild.